Davis Eichelberger’s Twelve Corners Adventure
Ever since the 12 corners were initially chosen, I've thought the challenge would be to do them in a single day. I had looked at possible routes several times. Then at the first Saturday breakfast this month I got to talking to Jim Moss and we decided to do it in two days. For while you could get 12 corners in 24 hours, getting from home to the first corner and from the last corner home and all 12 corners is more than a day. So Jim and I were going to try it last week, but unfortunately a delay in Jim getting a tire preventing him leaving earlier in the week and prior commitments prevented me from doing it once his tire arrived.
Davis Eichelberger was the first rider to complete the Twelve Corners of Virginia Ride. He dedicated the ride to Dan Rodriguez, a fellow TVR member whom we lost to a tragic accident June 15, 2003.
I knew I would have a couple free days this week and thought about trying it, but when I learned my free days were Tuesday and Wednesday I was in a quandary. I spent all weekend trying to decide whether to attend Dan's service or ride. Monday I was a mess, don't know if the Shockwave presentation made the decision easier or harder. But, Tuesday I woke up at about 4:30 with everything feeling right. I'd really only known Dan on a motorcycle and perhaps the best way to pay tribute to him would be on a motorcycle. So I quickly loaded the bike and took off around the state in honor of Dan. I don't know if those at Dan's service felt my spirit there with them (it was!) but I know I felt Dan's spirit with me. So without any further ado I give you:
The Daniel Rodriguez Memorial 12 Corners Tour
Loaded the bike Tuesday morning and took off South on 81. Considering the distances and the fact that the corners of the state aren't really accessible by interstate and it was still dark, I conceded to the draw of the slab over 8 and 58. At Chilhowie, I jumped off and started down 606 to White Top Mountain, the sky was light enough to enjoy this nice road, even if one eye was always on the deer about to jump into my path. At White Top I forwent the trip to the top of the mountain this time and snapped a picture of the bike in front of the historical marker. Then it was onto 58 and Middlesboro. Arriving at Middlesboro, my plan was to snap the picture and get back on the road. When I saw the size of the Last Squadron museum I decide a quick trip through wouldn't take too long, wrong. By the time I made the lap, enjoyed a conversation with the head of the restoration team, got drawn into a discussion of motorcycles with a group of Veterans also there on motorcycles, and, oh yeah, got the obligatory photo, 45 minutes was gone. At least I was in the spirit of Chris's goal to make the destinations interactive. A quick stop for gas and I was bound for Breaks Interstate Park.
My plan had been to take 25 to 119 to 197 to Breaks. As I started up 119, I was thinking good choice. Being at the border of Va/Ky it can't be very straight and this was 3 and 4 lane so traffic wasn't a problem. Then just as the road went from 3 lane with nice sweepers to two lane and twisty, here looms a sign. Road closed 8 miles ahead. Great!! I stop at the next crossroad and pull out my KY map, which wasn't much help. Note to self, "Get KY Gazetteer." The only road that didn't involve back tracking shown on the KY state map was route 932 and it looked pretty close to the point of the announced closure. I decided to continue on and if I made it to that road, great, if not hopefully they would have a detour in place. Even with the unknown detour looming in my mind the next 5 or so miles were extremely fun. Then just as I caught a car in front of me, here is the barricade and the detour onto route 932. I follow the car onto 932, eventually find a spot to get around them and am just beginning to enjoy the detour (which is another nice road, especially if your not in a hurry. 119 is probably a little quicker, especially once they finish repairing whatever closed the road, but 932-671 could be fun!). My fun was short lived as I caught the tail end of about 20 cars lined up behind a Deville going about 20 mph. Eventually the train reached Rt 23 and though it looked to be about even whether to take 83 or 197 to Breaks, I opted to rejoin my original route and headed to Jenkins and Route 197.
Passing through Breaks I stopped at the first overlook and hiked the 65 yards down to get a photo. While the view was okay, overgrown branches made both the view and the photo less than ideal. Repeated the scene at the next overlook and although better than the first, still not the greatest overlook. As I hiked the 2 flights of stairs back to the parking area, I decided that I'd had enough hiking in June in a 'Stitch and it was time to move on. I stopped for the picture by the Park entrance and headed for Pocahontas. 80 to 83 and I was in Vansant. 460 from Vansant to Richlands is one of those roads that makes you realize not all 4 lane divided highways are boring. Arriving in Bluefield, I head up 102 to Pocahontas and find the mine actually open. The last time I was there, the sign read like it should be open, but it wasn't. No time for the tour today though. I settle for a bottle of water sitting in the cool breeze at the mine entrance. Who needs A/C when there are abandoned mines around? Another photograph and it's on to Paint Bank.
I stop for gas just before I cross the river into VA and think of Chris Elledge's comments about the characters in the Glen Lyn campground and the caboose. I think the local characters may have to wait, but it won't take long to get Chris a photo of the caboose. I pull into the park, snap the photo and am putting the camera away when I get the local characters also. A car with three shirtless, extremely tattooed campers stops as they are leaving. I answer the questions with a big smile as I think of Chris. Who makes that? Never seen a motorcycle like that before! Is it fast? What's it run?
Okay, caboose and local color done, on to Paint Bank. 219 to 3 to 311, always good. As I'm headed up 219 everything is just clicking. One of those rides where you really begin to feel one with the machine under you and the scene around you. Soaking in that feeling, my thoughts shift to Dan and the way he must have been in this groove a lot more often than I seem to get here. I wonder about the service and what everybody is doing now, as it must be over.
I start over Peters Mountain and realize whoever was supposed to take the TVR street sweeper out there this week sure fell down on the job, gravel, gravel, gravel. As I pull up to the Paint Bank store, I see Michelle going back inside, Yippee!! I park the bike and head inside. No Michelle to be seen. :-( I grab a drink and head to the counter for my mandatory Paint Bank slice (pizza, you perverts). The rules only state the clerk, so I pay for my purchase and tell the lady behind the counter that a m/c club I'm in is doing a kind of scavenger hunt/tour of VA and one the items is a photo of the clerk from this store on my m/c, would you mind letting me take your picture? She responds as I expected, …don't think so, can't leave the store, etc. but then says maybe when Michelle comes back down, she could. I finish my dinner and mill about, presently I think I better just photograph the bear and go. As if hearing my thoughts, the lady tells me she thought Michelle would've been back by now, maybe she isn'tcoming down after all. Just as she finishes speaking, down comes Michelle. I make my request and am rewarded by a "Sure!" One pictureof the Paint Bank store clerk taken, though I think the bear is probably a more plausible requirement.
18 to 220 and a picture of Blue Grass Book Bank. As I continue up 220 to the smell of fresh cut hay, I think of the way we are so much more in touch with our environment on a motorcycle. The smell of pig pens and chicken houses, quickly reminds me this isn't always a good thing. As dusk settles, the little white points of light along the road start to become all too prevalent. Turning onto Rt 50 I start to count, I was at 48 when I stopped for gas in Romney. As I pay for the gas, the officer standing at the store counter warns me to look out for deer, "They're everywhere tonight" Thanks!
I turn off just past Capon Bridge and attempt to take county roads to 522. At the first intersection, the roads don't match my directions. Being a little giddy at this point, rather than get out a map and try to make sense of it, I simply turn right cause it feels correct. A few, 'this way looks more populous' turns and miraculously I reach 522 although a number of miles further south than I had planned. Up 522 for the Cacapon Park photo.
Although, it's not as late as I was expecting after the time spent in Middlesboro, the 119 detour, waiting for Michelle, and the flip a coin navigating, it's still too late to make the last run of White's Ferry. I head to Winchester for some sleep. All in all a great day.
848 miles (and only about 100 straight!), 30 counties, and 8 corners!
Day Two
The draw of the pillow is too enticing and I hit snooze way more than I should have. Eventually, I drag myself out of bed, shower and start to gear up. Unlike yesterday, where the thrill of great roads, greatscenery and a real quest was calling, today was feeling like much more of a day of lets get it done. Not dreading it, but not the same sense of anticipation. I head to Harpers Ferry and get a picture of the National Park sign. Then it's on to Whites Ferry, unlike my Cacapon "short cut" yesterday, my shortcut between 340 and 15 works great and quickly I arrive in Whites Ferry. As I stop in the line of cars I see I timed this just wrong as the ferry is about halfway across the river. I really hadn't worried about the ferry schedule as I'd been across it before and knew it was only a 10 minute trip and it doesn't take very long to embark and disembark 20 cars. I shut down the bike and enjoy my breakfast as I watch the ferry unload, reload and head back. As I watch the Potomac drift by, I wonder what keeps a ferry running here. Today just as the previous time I crossed here, the traffic is largely commuters. The ferry docks and as I approach the gate I'm directed to the front of a line. How considerate. Reaching the Maryland shore, I'm first off but stop to get a photo. I'm meandering out to Rt 28 when I see the unmistakable flash of blue lights ahead. What the heck? They can't seriously be having a checkpoint, can they? My brake light joins the line of stopped cars. As I watch them quickly waving people by, I realize it must be an accident although the only car visible in the sheriff's. Maybe looking for somebody? As I'm waved past I see the accident, don't know what he/she was doing but one of the deputies had gone through the ditch and firmly implanted a telephone pole in the front end of his/her cruiser. I wave to the motor officer on the scene and continue on. Just then I realize I forgot a receipt for the ferry crossing, oops, hopefully the photos will be sufficient documentation. As I journey down 28 and begin to hit the stoplights I can already-feel the heat is going to be oppressive today. I also begin to wonder just what I was thinking when I headed out to ride DC traffic during rush hour into the rising sun. I'm thankful I'm on a m/c as I weave my way into a lane of moving traffic on 270. So far so good. It's early, I'm alert and traffic is moving a good clip. I merge onto the beltway and while the road is packed, I'm making good time.
I stop for gas in Annapolis, both for gas and to change my mental state so I'm less tempted to continue my super legal speeds onto the shore. Amazing how slow 60 can feel after a high speed run. Across the Bridge and down the shore. I make a brief jog to the corner of Delaware for a photo, just in case any of you needed to know just where the sweet/unsweet tea line is Marker #1 of the Mason-Dixon line is right on the lower western corner of Delaware. Besides if we ever do a 3 corners of Delaware tour, I'm one ahead of you. For such a historical relic, there are no signs routing you to it and very little info once you arrive. A family is milling about taking photos and I strike up a conversation. Seems they have friends visiting from Australia and this was what they wanted to see. Interesting, though I find it neat to see, it certainly wouldn't make my top 100 as a visitor from abroad. I gear up, and head to Chincoteague. A photo of the sign, a bottle of water, a dousing of the shirt and I'm ready to head on down the Eastern Shore. Chincoteague is not the place to be on a 90+ degree morning in a Stitch, one day I'm going to be able to afford vented gear. As I roll down the familiar Rt 13 I start to think of the Fisherman's Island sign. I know the bridge tunnel authority takes a dim view to pleasure stops on the shoulder, but the only signs aren't near the overlook. I know where there is good BBQ, so I stop for lunch at Formy's Barbeque in Painter. Chris Hall's tour must have BBQ. Formy's is surprisingly good especially considering the location. As I eat my sandwich and relish the A/C, I ponder alternative sites to Fisherman's Island. I gear up and head south, after making the camera as accessible as possible in case it comes to a breakdown lane photo. Kiptopeke State Park isn't very far north of the toll plaza, I decide to stop for that photo and see if we want to consider it as a location. A few miles further north I pass the recently opened Barrier Island museum. I pull over and snap a photo. This is a better interactive site than the State Park and what is closer to the edge of VA than the barrier islands. I punt the Kiptopeke photo. As I approach the toll booth I see the signs for the Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center and realize that photo will be easy after all. The center has only been there a couple of years and frankly I'd forgotten about it. I snap a photo, get out my toll money and head to the beach. Virginia Beach in 102 degree heat in an Aerostitch is NO FUN!! By the time I reach Back Bay, all three quarts of accessible water are in and on me. I take the photo, replenish my water supply and head to Suffolk. An advantage of having in-laws from Va Beach is I plot a course out with only about 8 stoplights. I take 58 across the bottom to the state to Franklin where I turn south.
As I was planning this I realized there is another corner not yet investigated. Just south of Franklin, at the edge of the Great Dismal Swamp, where Southhampton Co, Va. Suffolk Co, Va, Hertford Co, NC, and Gates Co, NC meet, the VA/NC border makes a jog. I head south on 258 to investigate. I travel about 5 miles into NC without seeing anything of interest and realizing this is supposed to be the 12 Corners of VA turn around. I head down the first road heading east before the VA line to find … a farm! Back to 258 and across the border. A turn at Riverdale, takes me to a restaurant/small marina on the river. I take a couple photos and head back north. Next time I'm that way I'll try to check out Cox Landing. Hopefully a better site than the Riverdale marina.
The miles are wearing on me and light will be fading by the time I reach the hill country so I opt for the quick route home. 58 to I-95 to 460 to I-81 and home. And yes Jim that beer did taste good!
815 miles (the only turns being exit ramps) 32 counties 6 corners. Altogether 1663 miles, 60 counties 14 corners and a whale of a good time.
Davis Eichelberger